Yorkshire Dales guide to Richmondshire
Richmondshire encompasses a contrasting array of dales, the Norse
word for valley, each leading one off the other, the main dales being
Wensleydale and Swaledale. Wild and lonely fells look down on lush
winding valleys.
Tranquil meadows are defined by drystone walls, hidden waterfalls
cascade into deep wooded glens, while small villages clutch to the hillsides and bustling market towns provide a focal point for
trade and activity.
The making of the landscape
From
the times of early settlers, who made forest clearings for their stock,
man has shaped the dales landscape. Evidence can be seen of cultivation
terraces on the steep hillsides, particularly near Reeth in Swaledale
and Castle Bolton in Wensleydale. Remains of defences and fortifications
are still prominent with earthworks at Maiden
Castle and Stanwick.
Many villages and topographical names have originated from Angles,
Saxon and Norse settlers. A few interesting examples are Askrigg (the
ash ridge), Birkdale (the birch valley) and Grinton (the green enclosure).
From
the 12th century the great Abbeys of Jervaulx and Easby were founded.
The monks established large farms in the dales, by clearing trees,
scrub and draining marshes and the Jervaulx monks are said to have
bred the Swaledale sheep and introduced the first Wensleydale cheese
for which the area is famous.
After the Dissolution of the monasteries land passed into private
hands and gradually farmhouses were constructed. It was at this time
that many of the drystone walls were built followed by the Enclosure
Acts of the 18th century which encouraged landowners to take over
what had previously been common land.
Leadmining too has been an important industry in the dales. Scars
from the workings can be seen today, softened by vegetation over the
last century, and ruined smelt mills and peat stores remain as testament
to a once great industry.
A variety of natural habitats
Everywhere
there are fields and roadside verges brimming with wild flowers. Sweet
cicely in the spring, meadow cranesbill, dog daisies and meadow sweet
in the summer, giving way to scabious and harebell. The area is particularly
famous for the flower-rich hay meadows, some of which have up to fifty
different species of wildflowers. These are now becoming rare, so
local and national conservation bodies are working with farmers and
landowners to ensure their continued survival by encouraging traditional
farming methods.
The moorland edges provide a popular breeding ground for the curlew,
while dippers and grey wagtails frequent the rivers. Lapwings can
be spotted throughout the area and the distinctive ‘ok-ok-ok’ call
and whirring flight of the red grouse is frequently heard before the
bird is seen.
A walker’s paradise
Many footpaths are long established routes having originally been
used by pack horses, drovers or as lead and mineral roads. Footpaths
can take you through woodlands, beside rivers and waterfalls, through
meadow and farmland or past ancient lead workings to high on the moor.
The most famous routes which pass through the area are the Coast to
Coast walk which proceeds down Swaledale and a section of the Pennine
Way.
An inspiring landscape
Thomas Girtin and his friend and contemporary J.M.W. Turner made
painting expeditions to capture from nature the waterfalls, riverside
details and the many castle and abbey ruins. Travelling on horseback
from valley to valley Turner made hundreds of sketches in his composition
book before translating them into some of the most exciting watercolours
of his career. A series of Turner seats, at viewpoints used by the
great artist, are located throughout Richmondshire from where you
can contemplate scenes little changed since he recorded them.
Now
film and television companies are attracted by Richmondshire’s timeless
quality. The unspoilt acres of dales scenery, the fine historic buildings
and the quaint character of many villages make the area an ideal setting
for period drama.
Practising as a vet from nearby Thirsk, Alf Wight was inspired to
write his All Creatures Great and Small stories about the now famous
vet, James Herriot. He spent his honeymoon in Wensleydale and developed
a long lasting affection for the dales. The films and the television
series were set in this idyllic countryside bringing into people’s
homes a taste of life in the dales as portrayed in the many stories.
Small villages assumed the role of market towns, hotels became country
clubs and village halls were television stars overnight. The period
set of James Herriot’s veterinary surgery has been preserved complete
and can be seen in Richmondshire Museum.
Local traditions and events
Dramatic events take place throughout the year with theatre, folk
music, street fairs, craft events, mock civil war battles and fireworks.
For two weeks each year from the Spring Bank Holiday the Swaledale
Festival offers a varied programme of exhibitions. music, performing
arts, craft and local events.
Agricultural shows and sheep fairs, which are an essential part
of the farming year, see dalesmen competing for awards which in turn
act as a mark of quality when their stock are sold at market.
For relaxation you will find local people taking part in games of
quoits, brass band concerts, fell races, or sheepdog demonstrations;
all of which make an exciting day out for participant and spectator.
